That soft shadow along your jaw in bright daylight is not pigment, it is vellus hair catching light. When you remove that peach fuzz and the outermost layer of dull skin in one precise session, makeup glides, serums sink in, and the skin reflects a cleaner sheen. That is the promise of a professional dermaplaning facial when it is done properly, on the right face, at the right time.
What dermaplaning actually does
Dermaplaning is a physical exfoliation technique that uses a sterile, single use scalpel to gently skim the stratum corneum, the top layer of dead skin cells, while also removing vellus hair, the fine translucent hairs we call peach fuzz. The blade is held around 45 degrees, the skin is kept taut, and the provider works in small, featherlike strokes. Think of it as a controlled, meticulous planing of the surface, not a general shave.
The immediate effect is tactile and visual. Post treatment skin feels baby smooth because the tiny hairs no longer disrupt texture. Light reflects more evenly, so the face looks brighter. Foundation and SPF spread without catching. Because that outer skin layer is lifted away, water based and oil based actives from your skincare facial treatment can reach living cells more easily, which is why many clinics pair dermaplaning with hydrating facial masks, a brightening facial serum, or LED light facial.
There is a common misconception that dermaplaning makes hair grow back thicker or darker. It does not change the follicle, root, or hair cycle. Vellus hair returns with the same diameter and color. It can feel different at first because a trimmed end feels blunt, not tapered, but the growth characteristics do not change.
Who benefits, and who should skip it
After two decades in treatment rooms, I reach for dermaplaning when the client’s main goals are smoothness, better makeup wear, and a quick glow. It suits many skin types, from dry to combination to oily, and it is safe across Fitzpatrick I through VI when technique and aftercare are careful. There are patterns I watch for.
Dry or dull skin. A dermaplaning facial gives a more even canvas than many exfoliants, and layering a moisturizing facial mask afterward restores plumpness without sting.
Oily skin with superficial texture. It does not reduce sebum production or clear deep congestion on its own, but it can be combined with an extraction facial or a pore cleansing facial for blackhead prone areas. I typically dermaplane first, then perform manual blackhead removal around the nose and chin if the skin is calm.
Sensitive skin. Many clients who cannot tolerate acids at high percentages do well with dermaplaning because there is no chemical reaction. That said, if your baseline includes rosacea with persistent inflammation, seborrheic dermatitis flares, or broken capillaries that react to friction, I either modify technique or choose a different customized facial.
Active acne. This is the biggest caution. Gliding a blade over inflamed papules or cysts can nick them, spread bacteria, and worsen post inflammatory marks. For acne prone skin in an active breakout, I favor an acne treatment facial first, sometimes with a mild enzyme facial or blue LED. I revisit dermaplaning only when lesions have flattened and the barrier has calmed.
Medical considerations. If you use isotretinoin, have open lesions, have uncontrolled diabetes, or are on blood thinners, I skip dermaplaning. If you are removing terminal hair on the jawline from hormonal causes, dermaplaning will not be the right answer, and I will discuss laser hair removal with you.
Men’s facial work is possible, though not on dense beard areas. I map paths around stubble and focus on cheeks and upper face. Teen facials can include light dermaplaning for fuzz before a school photo, but I require stable skin and a guardian present.
Inside a professional dermaplaning facial
A standalone dermaplaning appointment is often 30 to 45 minutes. When it is built into a signature facial, clinical facial, or luxury spa facial, it can run 60 to 75 minutes. The flow matters as much as the blade.
We start with a deep clean facial cleanse to remove sunscreen, makeup, and oils. I prefer a non foaming gel or a light oil for the first pass, followed by a water based cleanser. Skin must be fully dry for the blade to catch vellus hair, so I degrease with alcohol or an acetone blend, then wait a minute. Under bright light, with skin held taut, I use a 10 or 10R blade. Movement is slow, deliberate, and directional, usually from lateral to medial, avoiding moles and raised spots. I do not crosshatch. Feather strokes lift debris into gauze.
If extractions are needed, I decide based on skin response. On resilient, oily skin, I may perform brief blackhead removal after dermaplaning, then soothe. On more reactive faces, I extract first, or I skip extractions that day and build them into the next pore cleansing facial. I often follow with a hydrating facial step, for example a hyaluronic acid serum, then a calming mask with colloidal oatmeal, panthenol, or centella. In advanced skincare facial protocols, LED light facial in red wavelengths can reduce post procedure redness. I finish with a bland moisturizer and a broad spectrum SPF 30 or higher.
When dermaplaning is part of a custom facial, I tune the add ons. Photoshoot tomorrow and no downtime desired, I keep it to hydration and light oxygen facial infusion. Texture targeted series, I alternate dermaplaning with a mild chemical peel facial at 20 to 30 percent lactic, never on the same day for new clients.
A brief anecdote that captures the feel. A bridal client with fine, dense cheek fuzz and makeup pilling around the nose came in on a Tuesday for a dermaplaning facial inside a relaxing facial ritual, no acids. Friday photos, her artist reported foundation set in half the time and required less powder. She came back a month later, not because fuzz had returned in full, but because the ease of her routine had spoiled her.
What you can realistically expect
Immediate smoothness is universal when the facial is done correctly. Depending on your baseline, the visible glow is strongest for 2 to 5 days, while the smoother feel lasts until vellus hair returns, usually around 3 to 4 weeks. If your goal is to minimize the look of fine lines and improve the way light bounces off the face, you will see that right away. If your goal is to treat pigment or deep acne scars, dermaplaning is supportive, not definitive. It improves the penetration of brightening agents and can make a subsequent pigment focused facial, like a pigmentation facial or anti redness facial for post inflammatory erythema, more effective.
Will pores shrink. Pores do not physically shrink, but by removing skin buildup around the opening, they look less obvious. Large pores from oil production will look quieter for a week or two when paired with a well designed skin rejuvenation facial that balances hydration.
Will makeup cling less. Yes. Without tiny hairs and flakes, cream and liquid products melt in. Many clients switch from full coverage to medium coverage after dermaplaning because they need less camouflage.
Regrowth. Hair grows at its own pace. Most clients schedule dermaplaning every 4 weeks to match that cycle. Some faces can push to 6 weeks. If you cycle it with a microdermabrasion facial or a peel, allow skin to recover between modalities.
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Risks, and how a skilled provider lowers them
Any tool that touches skin carries risk. The main issues with dermaplaning are superficial nicks, temporary redness, folliculitis, and rarely, post inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Technique and hygiene drive outcomes.
A sterile, single use blade and fresh gloves are non negotiable. The blade angle and pressure should be gentle, barely grazing. Nicks happen most often over past breakouts, along the jawline curve, and near the nose. I slow down at those edges. Prepping the skin to be oil free matters, but stripping a barrier compromised face increases redness, so I adjust degreasing strength.
Hyperpigmentation risk is low because this is not heat based, but it is not zero. On richly pigmented skin or clients with a history of PIH, I shorten passes, avoid aggressive add ons, and insist on diligent SPF. Post procedure breakouts occasionally occur, usually from occlusive products used that night. This is why aftercare stays simple.
If you ever feel dragging, burning, or see the provider razoring back and Browse this site forth rapidly, speak up. Dermaplaning should feel like light tickling with a gentle scrape sound, not sandpapering.
At home razors vs a professional facial
I get asked about those inexpensive face razors everywhere. They are fine for basic fuzz removal, and I have clients who maintain between appointments with careful home shaving on the cheeks. The differences are depth, precision, and sanitation.
A professional facial uses a sharper, medical grade blade that can lift not just hair but the adherent dead skin more evenly. Pros work under magnification with proper stretch, lighting, and mapping. We also set your skin up with a tailored hydrating facial finish and coach your aftercare. At home, most people either glide too quickly, miss areas, or overwork the same area. That said, if budget is tight and you feel steady handed, work on completely dry, clean skin, keep strokes short, sanitize tools, and do not chase every last hair.
Cost wise, a dermaplaning facial ranges about 60 to 200 dollars depending on your market and what is included. In a premium facial treatment with LED or a luxury spa facial environment, plan for the higher end. Packages lower per session cost. It is not covered by insurance.
Smart pairings, and what to avoid on the same day
You can build dermaplaning into many professional facials when the timing and intensity are right.
It pairs well with an enzyme facial for additional non acid exfoliation, with a deep hydration facial to restore the barrier, or with a light peel at very low strength on resilient skin under a clinical facial protocol. When I do a collagen facial or firming facial with peptides and massage, dermaplaning first lets those actives land more evenly. For an anti aging facial strategy, I rotate modalities across weeks, not in the same appointment. Dermaplaning one visit, then a chemical peel facial or hydrafacial the next.
I do not stack dermaplaning with microdermabrasion facial on the same day. That much mechanical friction in one sitting is too much. I also avoid radiofrequency facial or ultrasound facial heat based devices immediately after, as heat can increase redness and, in skin of color, raise PIH risk. If you want RF facial treatment for laxity or a lifting facial effect, schedule it a separate week.
For acne clearing facial plans, I place dermaplaning in maintenance phases, not flare phases. A skin tightening facial is fine later, once barrier and breakouts are stable. If you have rosacea or frequent flushing, I skip aggressive massage afterward and favor a soothing facial finish.
Aftercare that makes the glow last
For 24 to 48 hours, imagine your face as freshly polished hardwood. You would not pour acid on it or scald it with steam. Keep products simple, avoid heavy sweat or steam rooms, and lean into barrier repair.
- Use a gentle cleanse that does not strip, follow with a hydrating serum, then a light but effective moisturizer. Look for glycerin, hyaluronic acid, squalane, and ceramides. Wear a broad spectrum SPF 30 or higher daily. Mineral filters like zinc oxide are less likely to sting right after a facial. Press, do not rub, when applying products that first night. Pause retinoids, AHAs, BHAs, and scrubs for 48 to 72 hours. If your routine includes prescription tretinoin, resume on night three if there is no lingering sensitivity. Skip hot yoga, saunas, and direct sun exposure for a day. Heat expands capillaries and can increase redness.
Makeup can go on that day if you must be camera ready. If you can wait until the next morning, even better. Choose clean brushes and non comedogenic formulas. For some clients, I suggest a tinted mineral sunscreen in place of foundation for the first 24 hours to show off that new skin glow facial effect.
Pre appointment checklist
- Confirm you have no active cystic acne, open cuts, or a sunburn. Stop retinoids and strong acids 48 to 72 hours beforehand. Shave or trim beards a day prior if doing a men’s facial with dermaplaning around stubble. Bring a list of your skincare, especially recent peels or at home devices. Plan your schedule so you can avoid heavy workouts and saunas right after.
How to choose the right provider
Dermaplaning is in both spa facial menus and medical facial settings. Skill varies. The best facials are built from assessment and restraint, not gadgets alone. Ask how they prep, what blade they use, and how they decide when to stop. A seasoned esthetician can explain every step and adapt in real time.
Red flags are specific in this service.
- Reused blades, poor lighting, or no gloves. Performing dermaplaning over active pustules or cysts. Rushing the degrease step, then dragging the blade. Aggressively stacking strong peels or microdermabrasion immediately after on a first visit. Dismissing your history of hyperpigmentation or sensitivity.
If you are deciding between a quick facial bar and a clinic, consider your skin goals. For a simple peach fuzz removal and glow before an event, a clean, efficient express facial can be perfect. For a longer plan that addresses fine lines, pigment, and texture, look for advanced facial options under a licensed provider who can design a custom facial path that may include anti aging facials, a brightening facial series, or a rejuvenating facial with supportive home care.
Where dermaplaning fits among other options
For fuzz. Compared to waxing or threading, dermaplaning is gentler and avoids pulling, which helps sensitive skin. It misses coarse terminal hair because those hairs can snag, so do not use it for the upper lip if hair is thick. Laser hair removal is best for terminal hairs on lighter skin against dark hair. For darker skin tones with facial hair, laser choice matters, and a consultation for appropriate wavelength is key.
For texture. A microdermabrasion facial also smooths, using crystals or a diamond tip to abrade. It does not remove hair. Chemical peel facial treatments reach deeper layers chemically. They target pigment and lines more effectively but have more downtime. I often place dermaplaning early in a series to boost product uptake, then use peels to remodel.
For anti aging. An anti aging skin treatment plan can include dermaplaning to prep before a firming facial with peptides and massage. For collagen stimulation, radiofrequency or microneedling are the drivers. Dermaplaning is the supporting act that makes products land well and makeup look better.
For sensitive conditions. For rosacea, a soothing facial with cool compresses and selective LED can be better than dermaplaning during a flare. For pigmentation issues like melasma, dermaplaning is neutral. It helps your pigment serums penetrate but does not treat the pigment alone. Combine with a pigmentation facial plan and daily SPF.
Timing for events and maintenance rhythm
Book the dermaplaning facial two to five days before a major event. On day one, you might have mild pinkness. On day two, the glow peaks. On day three to four, makeup sits perfectly for most faces. If you have never done it before, test a full facial at least three weeks ahead, then repeat before the event so there are no surprises.
For maintenance, every four weeks is a steady rhythm. If your vellus hair grows more slowly, extend to five or six. Athletes and hot yoga fans may need more time between if redness lingers after workouts. Seasonal tweaks help. In dry winter, pair with a deep hydration facial. In humid summer, I lighten the finish and may add an oil control serum around the T zone.
What I see in real practice
Two clients come to mind. A 56 year old woman with fine lines and a long history of sensitivity could not tolerate medium depth peels. We built a plan around a monthly dermaplaning facial, alternating with gentle enzyme work. Over four months, her foundation shade did not change, but her need for it did. The smoother surface made her lines softer to the eye and let her SPF and peptide serums do more. She kept to this as her anti aging facial mainstay.
A 24 year old with acne prone skin and dark vellus hair wanted that glass skin look she saw on social media. We paused her request during an active flare and did an acne clearing facial with blue LED and extractions, then brought in dermaplaning six weeks later. By removing the fuzz, her sunscreen applied evenly, which made her more consistent with SPF, which in turn calmed post inflammatory marks. Sequence mattered more than any single treatment.
Final practical notes
Do not chase perfection in one visit. The best facial treatment is the one matched to your skin that day. If a provider postpones dermaplaning because your skin is irritated or you just had a chemical peel facial, that is a sign of care. If your budget allows for only one advanced skincare facial every other month, ask for a custom skincare facial that rotates focus so you get meaningful progress without overdoing it.
Use your mirror and your calendar as guides. If peach fuzz catches the light and your makeup catches on texture, dermaplaning is a good candidate. If your concern is deep pigment, scars, or sagging, keep dermaplaning as a support alongside targeted treatments like a brightening facial, collagen facial work, or an RF facial treatment scheduled appropriately.
Most of all, respect the barrier you just refined. Smooth skin is not the prize if it becomes reactive. The glow from a well performed dermaplaning facial is obvious, but the absence of drama afterward is the real mark of a job done well. Book when your skin is calm, pair it wisely, keep aftercare simple, and let your face reflect the light without that soft shadow of fuzz getting in the way.